Day Trip in L.A. – How to fit two wheels into a regular vacation

Most motorcycle travel stories are about dedicated bike trips, but what do you do if you’re on a regular vacation and still want a day on two wheels? To explore roads, nature and culture, without the entire trip revolving around motorcycling?

In my case, I was travelling around California for a month, with Los Angeles as both the first and last stop. A city that seems to have no end, tucked between the ocean and the mountains. With nature just around the corner and an average of 260 sunny days a year, Los Angeles is the perfect hub for motorcycle culture. And I don’t travel to the sun without riding a motorcycle. That’s just how it is. Since you’re reading this, I assume you’re wired the same way.

On road

Planning was done at home with booking a motorcycle through Rider’s Share, gathering route suggestions and bike hangouts from local motorcycle groups on Facebook, as well as through conversation with my local friend Louis, who took on the role of my personal guide on his BMW R 1250 GSA. It quickly became clear that some roads had been damaged by the heavy December rains, which caused fatalities and even made it onto Swedish news. Christmas 2025 in SoCal (Southern California) was record-breaking wet and we shall remember what Albert Hammond stated back in 1972:

“It never rains in California
But girl, don’t they warn ya?
It pours, man, it pours”

For example, Angeles Crest Highway was closed due to several landslides, but! Trust me when I say that my travel luck is almost unheard of and that I would eventually get to ride it anyway. Despite the trip being planned during the rainiest period of the year, I arrived three days after three weeks of storms had dropped their final raindrops. My entire first week in Los Angeles promised Swedish summer weather (at its very best).

A professional bike, a professional rental

I wanted something playful yet easy to ride and despite six years as a freelance writer for motorcycle magazines, I had never ridden what has repeatedly been Sweden’s best-selling motorcycle: the Yamaha MT-09.

Bike pickup is early pre-noon on a Monday at Moto For All in Hollywood, a business combining rentals and workshop. It’s rare for me to encounter a completely flawless motorcycle; Tires, brakes, fork legs.. Not even the levers show a single scratch. With tire pressure checked before departure, it honestly didn’t get much safer than that. All that remained of the day were empty, winding roads in 25 degree weather without a single cloud sight.

Asphalt magic in the Santa Monica mountains

After half an hour north on Freeway 101, we reached Calabasas and turned onto Mulholland Highway. In the U.S., a ’Freeway’ corresponds to a Swedish motorway, while a ’Highway’ is more like a two-lane country road.

Here, it ain’t about 180-degree hairpins between short straights to efficiently climb a mountainside. Instead, you flow smoothly through connected curves of varying radius and camber. The asphalt is clean,and the potholes I’d been warned about after earlier storms, are nowhere to be seen.

Tuna Canyon quickly became a favorite, especially the roughly 6,5 kilometer one-way downhill stretch heading south, ending at Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) by the ocean. The road is slightly wider than a one-way street and sweeping from edge to edge in what feels like endless curves, without oncoming traffic, is beyond words. The creases from my smile lines deepened permanently.

Along PCH, only house foundations remain along the shoreline, right next to the asphalt we’re riding on. Just over a year ago, you couldn’t see the ocean at all, hence luxury homes blocked the view. These were completely destroyed, along with thousands of other homes and over 93 million(!) hectares, in the Palisades fires that burned throughout January 2025.

During lunch at Malibu Country Mart, Louis explains that rebuilding is being hindered by insurance companies unable to do payouts or unwilling to insure new homes, combined with modern building and environmental regulations and skyrocketing construction costs. Several times throughout the day, I hear him marvel at how quickly nature has recovered and how lush and green the mountains already are.

Via Malibu Canyon Road north, we reach the iconic 4 kilometer stretch known as “The Snake” on Mulholland Highway, which until recently had been closed for 7 years due to fires and landslides (that’s my travel luck!).

On weekends it’s crowded since the stretch is more of a photo studio than a road, but on a weekday like this, it’s entirely ours to play on.

It hits me why the MT-09 is one of the best-selling motorcycles out there. I don’t even have to think about what I’m doing, everything just flows.

The engine has plenty of torque, the quickshifter and blipper work seamlessly, the chassi feels light and alert. The only thing I’d wish for is different tires since I’ve never been fond of Bridgestone, but that’s not the bike’s fault.

We continue west to Sycamore Canyon Road and the twisties make me laugh out loud inside my helmet, there’s no end! I think of the Norwegian race track ‘Rudskogen’: equally easy-going, free of nasty surprises, where I there as here could just as well have had various body parts touching the ground (in a controlled manner). I’m happy and even happier that I’m not on a sportbike that would likely have been too inspiring. Another grown up point earned!

By now, we’ve been out for almost a handful of hours. We roll back down to Pacific Coast Highway and stop at Neptune’s Net for a late afternoon snack in the sunset. Darkness falls quickly after that.

The ride home goes via Encinal Canyon Road and Kanan Road, to the 101 north of the Santa Monica Mountains. Rush hour is at its peak and traveling on two wheels literally halves the travel time. It feels a bit sketchy at first, to lane split through this five-lane obstacle course for at least the upcoming half an hour. After a few miles, once the unfamiliarity and self-preservation instincts subside, the legal lane filtering takes place in my heart forever. At times it happens at speeds up to 120 km/h and we’re not the only ones on two wheels doing this kind of creative riding. Completely unthinkable in Sweden, perfectly normal here.

A detour to Ortega Highway

Later during my trip, I’m meeting another friend for lunch in San Juan Capistrano, Orange County. That’s where Ortega Highway is, another well-known twisty road, little over 40 kilometers long. This time I’m not on a motorcycle, but in a Ford Mustang, and nearly an hour early. I figure I should make it to Lake Elsinore and back, even though the GPS insists it’ll take an hour and fifteen minutes.

Ortega Highway is a major thoroughfare, hence it’s wider and better maintained than the roads in the Santa Monica Mountains. There’s also more money in Orange County than in Los Angeles, which shows in the road quality (to be clear: O.C. isn’t considered L.A., at best “Greater L.A.”).

After leaving two black stripes and a tire squeal at the last traffic light at Avenida La Pata, where Ortega truly begins, I get 21 uninterrupted kilometers before catching up to traffic.

Even mid-week, this isn’t a road to gamble on overtaking, especially with a car that doesn’t move like a motorcycle. Either way, it was fun and whether I arrived on time for lunch or not, I decline to comment.

Los Angeles’ main motorcycle hangouts

Deus Ex Machina

Until two years ago, you’d find Michael ‘Woolie’ Woolaway here (nowadays retired), a racer who specialized in customizing motorcycles, from bobbers and supermotards, to roadsters and scramblers.

Deus has collaborated with brands like Alpinestars and Ducati, hosting test rides and events, and several motorcycle clubs use the space as a meeting point. Zack, who nearly a decade ago left one of the city’s Harley Davidson dealerships to work at Deus, explains:

“Motorcycle trends in Los Angeles come in waves. First was the Honda CB350 era and air-cooled Bonnevilles, then the Scrambler boom and now there’s a chopper revival, alongside growing interest in off road riding. Many overnight trips in the Mojave Desert are organized, where dirt bikes, baggers and stripped custom motorcycles gather.”

The café is a relaxed meeting place for everyone and on a regular weekend, the parking lot can be filled with everything from Italian veteran sports cars to Porsche meet-ups.

Plans exist to expand both the menu (with beer and wine) and facility, but growth must happen organically.

Despite being an international flagship, Deus has managed to retain the feeling of a personal, welcoming local hangout.

Bike Shed Moto Co

Employee Liz Sands, a true road racer with hill climb records on her Harley Davidson, explains that Los Angeles has many subcultures and that Bike Shed aims to create a hub open to everyone

This is summed up in their slogan ‘Common Ground’. They organize their own riding and member events, from local to longer trips (including Las Vegas). Track days are run in collaboration with external organizers, offering members perks, while gravel-oriented rides reflect Southern California’s growing interest in off road riding as previously mentioned.

“Even though Bike Shed L.A. has been around for almost four years, we are still establishing ourselves and people are still discovering us. I had no idea until someone who knew it was being built showed me, so it was a bit of a coincidence” says Liz. At the same time, the brand is expanding internationally, with new store ventures in e.g. Dubai.

Two spots, two vibes

Both places have been recognized and frequented by well-known figures with motorcycle interests, such as Keanu Reeves, Orlando Bloom, Ewan McGregor and David Beckham.

Other big names are involved behind the scenes, which speaks to how established both places are.

Neither tries to be the other; Deus and Bike Shed contribute to the city’s bike scene with different atmospheres and are equally worth a visit.

Off Road

As mentioned earlier: if time and weather allowed, I’d go for an off road ride during my last days in Los Angeles. It later turned out that the week after I left California, the rain returned so heavily that sidewalks flooded again. Timing is sometimes everything (and my travel luck).

Private bike rental for the wilderness

I’m not the tiniest girl and it’s no secret that most adventure bikes require NBA-length legs to handle comfortably. Everything is manageable, but the margins shrink. The smallest bike I found on Rider’s Share with gravel tires was a privately owned 2019 Triumph Scrambler 1200 XE, with a seat height just over 86 centimeters.

Unlike the corporate-rented MT-09, the Scrambler wasn’t in perfect condition. The front tire was done, but if you can ride fast on slicks on a supermotard track, this would work fine too. Off road riding isn’t really allowed either (not even on ‘fire roads’), but the owner happened to be a former supercross rider and gave me tips on good off road areas. Another advantage of private rental is flexibility; in this case, I was offered everything from cables to power banks, to manage a full day of wilderness navigation.

Unknown terrain demands more than just ambition

Honestly speaking, the decision to ride off road was made last minute. Looking for suitable routes the day before is not recommended. YouTube, OnXMaps and limited TrailMaps gave a hint, but not enough when unwritten rules, terrain and access are unknown. There’s no public right of way here as there is in Sweden and most gravel roads have gates that are impossible to know in advance if they’re open.

Off road day one: when will alone meets reality

My first half day was spent on asphalt north of Santa Clarita, double checking gates around the Sierra Pelona Mountains. When I reached the starting point at Rowher OHV Flats for Sierra Pelona Ridge, a police officer came up to me.

It all began that I had stopped on the wrong side of the road (…on an empty gravel road 4,5 kilometer from the nearest asphalt). It escalated into a discussion about me not carrying my passport, followed by a lesson on how Swedish motorcycle licensing works, as he questioned if I was eligible to ride a 1200cc.

Once I charmed the officer enough for him to soften, I was advised against crossing the mountain due to the road conditions. The roads may be maintained once a year, regardless of weather. Meanwhile, my phone buzzed with a text from Louis reminding me it was late and that darkness falls quickly. I chose to collect another grown up point and turned home.

Off road day two: Same will, with the right conditions

If you’re going off road in a country you don’t know, ride with someone who does. Since Louis lives here and off road is his natural habitat, he became my “the one who knows” and offered his company for a better-suited off road excursion.

The next morning I meet Louis, who’s on a Royal Enfield Himalayan 411 instead of his BMW R 1250 GSA (the Beemer is in for warranty repair of the lower fork bridge). I don’t even need to look him in the face to know what he thinks about me on the Scrambler. He notes “Well… it is a big bike…” and suggests a swap once we reach the gravel, claiming he wants to feel how the Scrambler handles (though you and I both know that’s not the real reason).

We fuel up at Shell in La Cañada Flintridge, a classic meeting spot for crotch rockets according to Louis, and ride up the partially reopened Angeles Crest Highway (I told you I’d eventually get to ride there!). It’s more like Ortega Highway than the Santa Monica Mountain roads, offering another epic, spacious and flowing stretch.

At Mill Creek Fire Station, several gravel roads lead in different directions. We park and bump into two friendly men in a pickup who advise us against taking the open gate road they just came from.

“Parts of my road have washed away!” says one, who happens to be the landowner.

No harm done; Louis had planned on taking a different one, ironically with a closed gate. These gates can best be described with Captain Barbossa’s words in Pirates of the Caribbean:
“…buried on an island of dead what cannot be found, except for those who know where it is.”. It’s like, you need to have ridden here and know the area to understand what’s rideable, gated or not.

I hop on the Himalayan and sigh of relief, as I effortlessly settle into the correct riding posture when standing and balance, with both feet planted firmly on the ground. The Scrambler’s ergonomics are more horizontal, with a relatively flat handlebar and seat in relation to each other, as well as a longer distance between them. It’s capable but compromised, making standing riding more strenuous than on an adventure bike.

After sliding past the closed gate on the right, we’re on Pacifico Mountain Road. The terrain consists of hard-packed clay, deep ruts at every angle and a layer of silt on top, in hilly terrain.

The road itself is beginner level, but a notch more advanced than the typical Swedish gravel road I’d say. It’s also important to consider the rider and I had been very clear about my limited off road skills.

Within minutes I slipped into a rut at the wrong angle and clumsily slid sideways. A minor mishap followed, but with a good coach like Louis giving hands on tips along the way, I relaxed. When we turn around, the riding flows naturally and the Himalayan (like the MT-09) allows me to ride without thinking about the bike – low power with its 24 hp but stable and forgiving.

In hindsight, I may have made a bigger fuss than necessary, but Louis’ foresight in suggesting a bike swap let me focus more on riding and less on worrying about tipping the Scrambler. We agree entirely that anything built to be ’okay’ at two things (whether bikes or tires), never gets good at anything. And to the ones claiming exhaust heat isn’t an issue, I quote the renter: It gets toasty.

On asphalt, in Aliso Canyon and Soledad Canyon, the Scrambler is far more nice. I rest my feet on the engine guard to give my right leg a break from exhaust heat. Occasionally I release the handlebars, letting the warm air sweep between my fingers and press against my palm. It’s the last time in months I’ll feel this kind of warmth (if summer even will get this hot). The next second I exclaim that I really don’t want to get on a plane to Sweden in 48 hours. Louis calmly says over the intercom:

“You are where I was 20 years ago. I extended my first Los Angeles trip by 3 months when it was time to go back to Germany, and I’m still here. I’ve always wanted to live somewhere where you can do things year round. Here, you can ride a motorcycle almost every day and nature is so close.”

We part ways when we reach the city and I head to West Hollywood to return the bike, as rush hour builds. It’s in city traffic I appreciate the Scrambler the most. I snake through lanes and accelerate quickly from standstill, leaving cars far behind. I realize how few motorcycles I’ve actually seen and feel sorry for all L.A.-nians trapped in their cars. How can they not have a bike living in this city?!

At the return spot the renter laughs, pleased to see his bike covered in a layer of dust. It needed a wash anyway, he smiles.

Why it worked and got even better

It wouldn’t have been a success story if I had set out alone, on the wrong bike, in the wrong place. The fact that Los Angeles showed its best sides – both the lovely on road day at the beginning and that I later got to experience anything at all of the off road here – was because I got to see it through another motorcyclist’s eyes.

Los Angeles became so easy to love, when I got to follow someone who led the way.

To make it easier for you to plan and bring a two-wheeled day trip to life, have a look at mine and Louis’ tips, both general advice and LA-specific details.

Advice from Louis the Local

Things You Should Know Before Riding L.A.

Access lottery

Ongoing roadworks are easiest to track via Los Angeles Public Works. When it comes to off road, it’s almost impossible to check online which gates are open and when. What you can do is head out and check for yourself, trial and error is part of the adventure.

Plan with microclimate in mind

Microclimates in SoCal can cause big variations over just a few miles and hours. Temperatures also drop with elevation. In the app On The Way, you can plan your route up to a week in advance and get a weather forecast for the entire ride.

With the above in mind, I almost always scout routes beforehand. I understand that you might not have the time, but I want to emphasise the uncertainty, especially off road.

Apps

• Gaia GPS (for wilderness navigation)
• OnXMaps (may have software issues)
• Scenic (simple and good one)
• On The Way (weather on the route)

Motorcycle rental

• Eagle Rider
• Rider’s Share (Robin’s pick)
• Twisted Road

Find your way through local riders

• Advrider.com (old school forum, here you’ll sometimes find free clinics)
• Facebook groups: California Dirtbike Riders, Flying Monkey Adventure Riders, SoCal Motorcycle Riders and any local group around your specific bike or model, like BMW GS or KTM Adv.

L.A. traffic demands more

Number one: There’s always traffic in Los Angeles.
Number two: Mobile phones and drunk or high drivers are part of everyday traffic, sometimes a whiff of cannabis will hit you as you pass a car (cannabis was legalised in California in 2016). There’s no clear “right-of-way mindset”, it’s nothing like riding in Germany. I’ve deliberately tested Waymo (self driving cars) and found them reliable at detecting you, so I think all traffic should consist of them.

Stop Ahead of the line at intersections

I’d rather be fined than risk being hit from behind (it has happened to me more than once), even if that means stopping on the crosswalk.

Photo: Robin Pecillo/Louis Oberlande